Everest Trek Day 6: Bupsa to Surke – Farts, stubborn donkeys, and valley views

Today was much easier than the rest for some reason.

Ben had gotten an early start so Josefine and I set off together for a 1000m uphill journey alone.  As we got going we had to pass two donkey trains but unfortunately got stuck behind a third (there were too many donkeys in this group and the path too narrow to pass).  The last donkey in the train apparently didn’t like the fact that we had joined in because he spend the entire time farting. 

He didn’t even bother putting his tail down for the hour we were behind them – just kept dropping gas bombs on us at a pretty regular interval.  We’d have to pause every once in a while to let the smell dissipate.  It was gross but donkey farts still have nothing on sea lion farts believe me.

Just before we reached the top of this particular hill we caught up with Ben so the three of us continued on together.  Around 11am we attempted to get some lunch at a local guest house instead of those made for tourists but none of them seemed real keen on serving us.  Thankfully they didn’t though because we came across a place called ‘Khumbu Guest House’ that sat at the top of a hill that overlooked the Khumbu Valley.

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From here we could see Lukla (where the majority of trekkers fly into) and watched planes and helicopters fly in and out of the town.  It was weird watching the planes for two reasons: one, we were almost at the same height as them; two, the planes are flying smack into the side of a mountain (there’s a reason it’s known as the most dangerous airport in the world) and as we would watch them land they would just all of a sudden disappear from our sight seemingly INTO the mountain.  We watched a few planes land and it didn’t get any less weird to watch.

We had lunch while enjoying this gorgeous view of the mountains, valley, and the villages below.  The best part about hanging out here was watching a donkey train go by and then witnessing a ‘handler’ scream, push, and pull at a stubborn donkey (who had apparently had enough for the day) until the guy eventually grabbed the donkey’s front leg and proceeded to start dragging the animal downhill (albeit quite slowly).  It was absolutely hilarious. 

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The donkey was having none of it and the guy was getting so pissed.  He was doing everything he could to make the donkey move downhill and apparently his final idea was to literally drag the animal down by it’s leg.  It worked for a little while and they disappeared from our sight but for the next 10 minutes or so we could hear the Nepali guy yelling at this awesome stubborn donkey and presumably continuing his efforts to drag it onwards.

All day we had been tossing up the idea of stopping in the town of Surke for the night or continuing on to the next town about 1.5-2 hours away.  But after eating lunch at this place and relaxing for so long we decided to continuing enjoying the view a bit longer and call it a day at the closer town of Surke (only about 45 min downhill).

Those 45 minutes were a bit tough at first as we’d all gotten a bit too relaxed over lunch but, as always, we eventually made it to Surke and hunkered down at ‘Thamserku Lodge’ with our Israeli friends Benny and Haim (who we would hike the remainder of the EBC trek with).

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IMG_1802_fotorSpoilers for next time: joining the tourist trail, being the cool kids, and my first ‘shower’.


For the rest of my Everest Base Camp trek posts click here!

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